USP LOVES ISSUE 32: THE CONCEPT OF COOL

Charli XCX @ Glasto

As a trend forecaster, I’m often asked, “What’s the latest colour? What’s trending? What’s cool right now?” My usual response is “Whatever you like – that’s what’s cool.” Honestly, I just don’t care.

We’ve been through quiet luxury, maximalism, nostalgia core, coastal cowgirl, you name it, we’ve seen them all and while they are fun ways to dress up and feel good, the concept of cool is much more than a TikTok trend.  For me cool is about being original, ground- breaking and independent – oh and funny, funny is very cool, but more of that later.

The idea of “cool” originated in post‑war African American jazz culture and spread globally through beat poetry, music, movies, and global media to become what we now recognise as the ultimate aspiration – or absolute worst nightmare – depending on your perspective.

A recent study published in the Journal of Experimental Psychology, surveyed nearly 6,000 participants from 12 countries around the world rated cool people on a range of personality traits and values and found they had six things in common. Extroverted, adventurous, open, autonomous, powerful and hedonistic came out on top.

The Mildmay Choir

Last week I sang in a choir performing 80s hits and I was taken back to a time when I felt cool. A twenty something fashion designer living in London, out every night at the latest clubs, wearing outfits I’d rustled up on the sewing machine that day, it felt like I was at the heart of the cultural zeitgeist, living the dream. But here’s the thing, it was my dream, my culture and my version of cool. So is it even possible to measure what’s cool, as surely everyone’s idea of cool is personal to them.

Is cool about aesthetics? Attitude? Both? And in an era when algorithms filter what we see, hear, and buy – has cool lost its authenticity? Has it become less about self-expression and more about following fads?

Fashion especially is suffering from this aesthetic burnout as the constant cycle of online micro-trends has made keeping up exhausting, with rules that shift weekly. A growing backlash against this force-feeding of information is seeing consumers crave surprise, authenticity and the power to reclaim their own organic decision making.  In fact, many of the truly cool people are stepping away from fashion trends altogether. Forget “try-hard” looks or performative alternative styles – they’re embracing their inner basic-ness. Trying too hard to be cool is, ironically, not cool at all.

@socks_house_meeting

Social media accounts like the tongue-in-cheek @socks_house_meeting exemplify this shift. This satirical, anonymous voice comments on East London’s microcultures and cool tribes, with memes that parody the hyperlocal identities of Hackney, earning it a cult following of 144K.

Likewise, @real_housewives_of_clapton takes a satirical swipe at East London hipster aesthetics – mocking natural wine obsessions, run club culture, Salomon trainers, and niche diets. And yet, this influencer who-isn’t-an-influencer has shaped local culture by promoting physical events, products, and charitable collabs.

Cool in 2025 is about being self-aware and funny, particularly in the UK. You can like something uncool – Love Island, Pot Noodles, Squash, Ed Sheeran – as long as it’s done with irony or layered meaning. Making something uncool – cool – using humour, authenticity and owning the narrative before the algorithm rhythm does – is the ultimate flex.

Unlikely cool girls Marnie Michaels & Paris Hilton

There’s also a strange irony in the uncool becoming cool. Think of the much-maligned Marnie Michaels from Girls, now rebranded by Millennials as a relatable trailblazer for her emotional honesty and self-awareness. Or Paris Hilton, once the overexposed poster girl of 2000s bimbo culture, now reclaimed as a camp, ironically chic icon.

Nostalgia plays a big part in this, especially for Gen Z and Millennials, and TikTok is the home of nostalgic cool – but with humour. Think: “Everyone’s chasing trends, but I’m over here eating Babybels in silence like it’s 2002.”

Whether it’s a desire to recapture simpler childhoods, contrasted with the uncertainties of adulthood and a longing for a sense of stability, nostalgia is fuelling today’s cultural and fashion movements.

The recent psychology study concluded that cool is measurable and transcends cultures – even across diverse societies and is mix of being creative, self‑driven, bold and occasionally morally ambiguous. I’m not sure I fully agree. Yes, being cool is about being an authentic, confident cultural trailblazer, but I also see it as a complex, shape-shifting social currency, part aspiration, part irony, part rebellion – that varies by tribe, location, and vibe.

My own relationship with cool has evolved over time. I have and always will be interested in current music, fashion, culture and lifestyle trends – as it is my actual job – but I try to forge my own path, as for me, being cool is aboutembracing individuality and being authentic. Whether you’re singing in a choir at the local working mens club, starring in an indie film, or building a platform on social media – if you’re doing your own thing without giving a damn what others think, you’re officially cool. Oh and don’t forget funny, you’ve got to be funny.

So what’s considered cool right now?

Geeky Kids: Being quirky, emotionally complex, genre defying, techy and creative. Those who once felt out of place are now cultural leaders on TikTok & Substack and are where it’s at.

Chloë Sevigny, Alanis Morissette

Middle-aged Women: Yes you heard it here first, Gen X understand analog and digital life, relate to older and younger generations, prioritise realness over perfection and know how to party. Kim Gordon, Alanis Morrissette and Chloë Sevigny are the poster girls.

Offline or Anti-Algorithm Curation: Those is search of authentic connection are turning to no online presence or smaller platforms like Letterboxd, Are.na, or niche Substacks to escape TikTok fatigue.

AI as a Creative Tool: Using AI tools for writing, design, and art is becoming mainstream – but cool creatives use them with a signature handwriting to make them their own, rather than relying on default settings.

Hyper Local: Supporting local artists and microbrands, working in your community gardens or creating local events is way cooler than globalized luxury.

Anti Perfection: Enough with the quiet luxury style, breathwork apps, ice baths, psilocybin microdosing and sleep optimization. It’s cool to be hedonistic and messy, Think Lola Young, Charli XCX and Gen X.