Bottega Veneta
Among the many new firsts at Milan Fashion week, Louise Trotter’s debut for Bottega Veneta was the most anticipated. A designer who values subtlety, the quiet luxury of details, shape and craft, she very much respected the brand’s codes, while adding her own blend of femininity and elevated proportions.
Some critics felt the subtle balance between luxury and wearability leant to far into pieces that appeal to established buyers rather than pushing bold innovation. But in a time when the luxury market is in crisis, directional commerciality feels like exactly what is needed. Not since Pheobe Philo for Celine (sadly not her current range) has a collection felt so right. Perhaps it’s something to do with women designing for women!
Bottega Veneta
- The collection centred around the idea that clothes should be both useful and tactile, structured yet gentle.
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The collection balanced heritage and innovation, leaning into the brand’s artisanal legacy, while also adding new textures, materials and directional silhouettes.
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A strong play of contrasts – masculine tailoring vs fluidity, rigid structure vs soft drape, muted earth tones vs bold colour pops.
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Intrecciato leather expanded from bags into outerwear (capes, coats).
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Recycled fiberglass / glass-strand details used for knits and skirts, created movement, shine, texture.
- COLOUR
Prada, Fendi, Tods, Fendi, Prada
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Colour-Blocking and bright contrasts stood out as a key colour direction, with orange, pink, turquoise, yellow and red working with darks and brown to create energetic combinations. Fendi and Prada provided inspiring colour combinations.
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Statement pieces such as big coats, bags, knitwear or a single item in a bright tone offered pops of colour. Bottega Veneta, in particular, used brights as accents along with earth tones and neutrals.
- Full monochromes or co-ordinating brights used bold colour in a head-to-toe looks.
- COLOUR
Bottega Venta, Fendi, Jil Sander, Prada, Gucci
- All shades of blue from petrol, to Yves Klein and sky blue featured across key collections.
- NUETRAL WORKWEAR
Prada, Maison Margiela, Ermanno Scervino
- A utility mood in neutral and khaki tones was softened with satin and nylon fabrications at Prada.
- Utility details, such as cargo pockets were minimal, while silhouettes offered a more feminine direction than previous seasons.
- FASHION ON FILM
Demna Gvasalia‘s first collection for Gucci skipped a traditional runway show for SS26 and instead launched with a lookbook titled La Famiglia, and a 30-minute short film The Tiger (directed by Spike Jonze & Halina Reijn). Reviews were mixed, with many praising the ambitious, cinematic approach as a way to generates buzz. While Demna is know for his storytelling, many wondered if the celebrity presence (Demi Moore, Edward Norton, etc.), and event-style premiere provided too much emphasis on narrative and atmosphere, rather than actual clothes that consumers want to wear.
Meryl Streep and Stanley Tucci or Miranda Priestly and Nigel Kipling
Art met real life and fashion met film at Dolce & Gabbana as Meryl Streep appeared front row in character as Miranda Priestly, her iconic role from The Devil Wears Prada. Stanley Tucci was seated beside her as Nigel Kipling, her in-film art director. Anna Wintour, who inspired the Miranda Priestly character, was also at the show, causing much excitement when photographed with Meryl/Miranda.
Glenn Close, Cate Blanchet, Lauren Hutton
Over at Giorgio Armani the front row featured a star-studded lineup, including Glenn Close, Cate Blanchet and Lauren Hutton. The show was a celebration of Armani’s legacy, featuring a collection titled “Pantelleria, Milan,” which drew inspiration from two of his most beloved places. The evening was marked by a live piano performance by Italian composer Ludovico Einaudi, and concluded with a model wearing a sequinned blue dres embroidered with Armani’s face – an emotional farewell celebrated with a standing ovation.
The Armani show finalé
